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Dokumentenidentifikation EP1493427 22.03.2007
EP-Veröffentlichungsnummer 0001493427
Titel Mittel zum blondieren von menschlichen Haaren
Anmelder KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH, 64297 Darmstadt, DE
Erfinder Nöcker, Dr., Bernd, 64372 Ober-Ramstadt, DE;
Blumenschein, Katrin, 64753 Brombachtal-Hembach, DE
DE-Aktenzeichen 60311570
Vertragsstaaten AT, BE, BG, CH, CY, CZ, DE, DK, EE, ES, FI, FR, GB, GR, HU, IE, IT, LI, LU, MC, NL, PT, RO, SE, SI, SK, TR
Sprache des Dokument EN
EP-Anmeldetag 03.07.2003
EP-Aktenzeichen 030150577
EP-Offenlegungsdatum 05.01.2005
EP date of grant 31.01.2007
Veröffentlichungstag im Patentblatt 22.03.2007
IPC-Hauptklasse A61Q 5/08(2006.01)A, F, I, 20060725, B, H, EP
IPC-Nebenklasse A61K 8/35(2006.01)A, L, I, 20060725, B, H, EP   A61K 8/68(2006.01)A, L, I, 20060725, B, H, EP   

Beschreibung[en]

The present invention concerns a new composition for the intensive, yet gentle bleaching and brightening of human hair with improved shine effect and obviously less damaging.

The bleaching of human hair customarily consists of a process with the following steps:

  • Homogenous mixing of a water-free preparation, preferably a powder, comprising at least one compound with a bleaching or brightening effect, in particular a solid peroxide salt, preferably ammonium, potassium and/or sodium persulfate or earth alkali peroxide, with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, application of this composition onto the hair, and rinsing after bleaching is completed. However, it has been known for some time that use of those components effective with regard to the bleaching, in particular the persulfates, especially the ammonium persulfate, in the requisite higher concentrations can lead to hair damage.

Efforts have already been made to solve this problem by (partial) substitution of the persulfates, however, so far the results have not been satisfactory.

Earlier it has been reported in EP 1 269 976, that addition of ubiquinone reduces hair damage and also improves wet and dry combability, texture and volume of hair.

DE 101 50 742 A1 is on cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising ubiquinone. The document does not disclose anything related to hair bleaching. DE 197 51 550 is on hair after treatment composition. The document does not relate to hair bleaching compositions.

It has now been found, and it is the object of the present invention, that addition of sphingolipid into ubiquinone containing bleaching compositions comprising anhydrous substances, in particular peroxides, as agents, surprisingly not only achieves an improved bleaching effect without causing major hair damage, it also improves the properties of the hair thus treated, in particular shine and elasticity of hair in addition to wet and dry combability, and volume of the hair.

Object of the invention is also a process for the bleaching of human hair with a preparation obtained by mixing a water-free composition (A), comprising at least one compound with a bleaching or brightening effect, preferably a peroxide with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition (B).

This task is solved by the addition of 0.001 % to 10 % by weight, calculated to the total composition, of at least one ubiquinone of the formula (I) wherein n is a number from 1 to 10, and

a sphingolipid of the following formula (II) at a concentration of 0.001 % to 10 % by weight, calculated to the total composition, where R1 and R2 are independent from each other alkyl- or alkenyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R3 is a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl group and n is a number between 1 to 6, preferably 2 or 3.

Preferred ubiquinones are those with n = 6 to 10, in particular ubiquinone 50, wherein n stands for 10, also known by the name "Coenzyme Q 10".

The use of "Coenzyme Q 10" in cosmetic compositions, in particular in hair conditioning compositions, is known per se.

EP 0 751 762 B describes hair conditioning compositions comprising one or more ubiquinones, in particular coenzyme Q 6 and coenzyme Q 10, in combination with retinols, retinals and &bgr;-carotin, for the treatment of ageing skin.

Styling compositions on aqueous basis comprising one or more bioquinones such as ubiquinones and plastoquinones for protection of the scalp and hair against undesired oxidation processes are known from DE 199 26 167 A1.

DE 199 26 168 A1 discloses styling compositions on alcoholic basis with bioquinones, in particular coenzyme Q 10.

DE 199 26 170 A1 concerns the use of one or more bioquinones such as ubiquinone in cosmetic hair cleansing compositions.

Finally, DE 199 26 156 A1 describes the use of bioquinones such as ubiquinone for the preparation of cosmetic compositions for improving the hair structure, in particular combability of the hair, i.e. hair-conditioning compositions.

EP 857 052 B1 describes sphingolipids or ceramides in oxidizing composition and especially in a permanent shaping process wherin hair is first treated with a reducing composition.

DE 197 51 550 describes the use of sphingolipid of the formula II in hair care preparations.

In view of this state of the art, the improved bleaching effect and at the same time improved elasticity and shine provided by the addition of ubiquinones and sphingolipids to bleaching compositions was not to be expected, in particular in the event of application onto previously damaged hair.

The preferred use concentrations of the coenzymes Q 1 to Q 10 range from 0.005 % to 5 %, in particular 0.01% to 2.5 %, especially preferred 0.05 % to 1 % by weight, calculated to the total bleaching powder composition (excluding the oxidation agent).

The preferred use concentrations of the sphingolipids of the formula II range from 0.005 % to 5 %, in particular 0.01% to 2.5 %, especially preferred 0.01 % to 1 % by weight, calculated to the total bleaching powder composition (excluding the oxidation agent).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching and brightening powders are used as dust-free products present as granules or agglomerates.

These can, for example, be those products disclosed in EP-A 560 088, which contain an oil or a liquid wax, whereby application of this oil or wax is preferably carried out in a spraying process.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use dust-free bleaching powders prepared according to EP-A 630 643 by agglomerating the initially pulverulent components by spraying onto these molten waxes or C10-C18-fatty acid alkanolamides, or by melting the same together at increased temperatures.

In addition to the active component, the bleaching agent compositions also contain the components customarily used in such compositions.

In the event the preparation is a powder, in particular inert pulverulent carrier materials, these are for example, pyrogenic silicon dioxide, starch powder, alkalizing agents, such as sodium metasilicate, surface-active substances, binding agents. In order to avoid repetition, reference is made to the respective standard literature, for example, K. Schrader, "Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika", 2nd Ed. (1989, Hüthig Buchverlag), pages 815 to 823.

Peroxides are used as active components. Useful as such are in particular persulfates such as sodium and potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, earth alkali peroxides such as magnesium peroxide, melamine peroxide or urea peroxide or phtholimidoperoxy- hexanoic acid.

The proportion of peroxides is at least 10 %, preferably at least 20 % to 80 % calculated to the total composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching compositions can also comprise 0.1 % to 10 % by weight, calculated to the total composition, of one or more ammonium salts.

Suitable ammonium salts are ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphates, ammonium nitrate, ammonium bromide, ammonium iodide, ammonium thiosulfate, ammonium molybdate, ammonium vanadate, ammonium sulfamate, ammonium citrate, ammonium salicylate, ammonium valerate, ammonium artrate, ammonium benzoate, ammonium acetate, ammonium formiate and ammonium lactate.

Preferred thereof are the ammonium phosphates, such as NH4H2PO4, (NH4)2HPO4, (NH4)2NaPO4, NaNH4HPO4 or NH4Na2PO4, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate and diammonium hydrogen citrate, as well as ammonium chloride, preferably in an amount from 0.1 % to 10 % by weight, calculated to the total composition.

As known from EP 609 796 A2, the ammonium compounds can also be used as sole bleaching agent in respectively higher amounts.

The proportion of the bleaching or brightening compounds in total preferably ranges from 5 % to 75 %, in particular 25 % and 60 % by weight, in reference to the brightening and bleaching powder.

The particle sizes of the bleaching compositions according to the invention generally range below 1 mm, preferably below 500 microns, for example, less than 400 microns, in particular about 25 to about 100 µm, thus ensuring excellent processing capability, i.e. mixability with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution prior to application onto human hair.

Application of the composition is carried out in the customary manner known per se. The pulverulent brightening composition is mixed homogenously with a 6 percent to 12 percent hydrogen peroxide solution, preferably in a proportion of about one part by weight of the powder to about 0.5 to about 4 parts, in particular about 1 part to about 2.5 parts by weight of the peroxide solution or lotion, and subsequently left on the hair to process for about 10 to about 60 minutes, in particular about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the temperature.

Application may also be carried out in a manner wherein the bleaching powder and the hydrogen peroxide solution are mixed with a cream base, this homogenous mixture then being applied onto the hair.

The composition is preferably adjusted at such levels that upon admixture with the aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, it achieves a pH-value of 8 to 11.5, in particular between 9 and 11 in the ready-to-use mixture.


Anspruch[de]
Eine wasserfreie Zusammensetzung zum Blondieren von menschlichen Haaren, enthaltend, a) mindestens eine Verbindung mit einem bleichenden oder aufhellenden Effekt, und b) 0,001 % bis 10 %, berechnet auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, mindestens eines Ubiquinons der Formel (I) worin n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 ist, und c) 0,001 bis 10 % , berechnet auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, mindestens eines Sphingolipids der Formel (II) wobei R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppen mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen sind, R3 eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl- oder Isopropylgruppe ist, und n eine Zahl zwischen 1 bis 6, vorzugsweise 2 oder 3 ist. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, worin n in der Formel I, 10 ist. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, worin n in der Formel I, 6 ist. Zusammensetzung nach einem oder mehreren der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, die 0,01 bis 2,5 Gew. %, berechnet auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, von mindestens einem Ubiquinon enthält. Zusammensetzung nach einem oder mehreren der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, die 0,01 bis 2,5 Gew. %, berechnet auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, mindestens einer Verbindung entsprechend der Formel II, enthält. Zusammensetzung nach einem oder mehreren der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, die mindestens ein Peroxid als eine Verbindung mit einem bleichenden und/oder aufhellenden Effekt, enthält. Zusammensetzung nach einem oder mehreren der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, die mindestens ein Ammoniumsalz als eine Verbindung mit einem bleichenden und/oder aufhellenden Effekt, enthält. Verfahren zum Bleichen von menschlichem Haar, worin eine wasserfreie Zusammensetzung (A), die mindestens eine bleichende oder aufhellende Verbindung enthält, mit einer wässrigen Wasserstoffperoxid-Zusammensetzung (B), enthaltend 0,001 bis 10 Gew. %, berechnet auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, mindestens eines Ubiquinons der Formel (I) worin n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 ist, und

mindestens eines Sphingolipids der Formel (II) wobei R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppen mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen sind, R3 eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl- oder Isopropylgruppe ist und n eine Zahl zwischen 1 bis 6, vorzugsweise 2 oder 3 ist,

gemischt wird und die Mischung auf menschliches Haar aufgetragen wird.
Anspruch[en]
Water-free composition for the bleaching of human hair, comprising a) at least one compound with a bleaching or brightening effect, and b) 0.001 % to 10 %, calculated to the total composition, of at least one ubiquinone of the formula (I) wherein n is a number from 1 to 10, and c) 0.001 % to 10 %, calculated to the total composition, of at least one sphingolipid of the formula (II) where R1 and R2 are independent from each other alkyl- or alkenyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R3 is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl group and n is a number between 1 to 6, preferably 2 or 3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein n in the formula I is 10. Composition according to claim 1, wherein n in the formula I is 6. Composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 3, comprising 0.01 % to 2.5 % by weight, calculated to the total composition, of at least one ubiquinone. Composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 3, comprising 0.01 % to 2.5 % by weight, calculated to the total composition, of at least one compound according to formula II. Composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, comprising at least one peroxide as a compound with a bleaching and/or brightening effect. Composition according to one or more of claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one ammonium salt as compound with a bleaching and/or brightening effect. Process for the bleaching of human hair, wherein a water-free composition (A), comprising at least one bleaching or brightening compound, is mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition (B), comprising 0.001 % to 10 % by weight, calculated to the total composition, of at least one ubiquinone of the formula (I) wherein n is a number from 1 to 10, and

at least one sphingolipid of the formula (II) where R1 and R2 are independent from each other alkyl- or alkenyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R3 is a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl group and n is a number between 1 to 6, preferably 2 or 3,

and the mixture is applied onto human hair.
Anspruch[fr]
Composition anhydre pour la décoloration du cheveu humain, comprenant a) au moins un composé ayant un effet de décoloration ou d'éclaircissement, et b) 0,001 % à 10 %, calculés par rapport à la composition totale, d'au moins une ubiquinone de formule (I) dans laquelle n est un nombre de 1 à 10, et c) 0,001 % à 10 %, calculés par rapport à la composition totale, d'au moins un sphingolipide de formule (II) dans laquelle R1 et R2 représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre un groupement alkyle ou alcényle avec 10 à 22 atomes de carbone, R3 représente un groupement méthyle, éthyle, n-propyle ou isopropyle et n est un nombre compris entre 1 et 6, de préférence 2 ou 3. Composition selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle n dans la formule I a pour valeur 10. Composition selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle n dans la formule I a pour valeur 6. Composition selon une ou plusieurs des revendications 1 à 3, comprenant 0,01 % à 2,5 % en poids, calculés par rapport à la composition totale, d'au moins une ubiquinone. Composition selon une ou plusieurs des revendications 1 à 3, comprenant 0, 01 % à 2, 5 % en poids, calculés par rapport à la composition totale, d'au moins un composé selon la formule II. Composition selon une ou plusieurs des revendications 1 à 4, comprenant au moins un peroxyde en tant que composé ayant un effet de décoloration et/ou d'éclaircissement. Composition selon une ou plusieurs des revendications 1 à 5, comprenant au moins un sel d'ammonium en tant que composé ayant un effet de décoloration et/ou d'éclaircissement. Procédé pour la décoloration du cheveu humain, dans lequel une composition anhydre (A), comprenant au moins un composé de décoloration ou d'éclaircissement, est mélangée avec une composition aqueuse de peroxyde d'hydrogène (B), comprenant 0,001 % à 10 % en poids, calculés par rapport à la composition totale, d'au moins une ubiquinone de formule (I) dans laquelle n est un nombre de 1 à 10, et au moins un sphingolipide de formule (II) dans laquelle R1 et R2 représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre un groupement alkyle ou alcényle avec 10 à 22 atomes de carbone, R3 représente un groupement méthyle, éthyle, n-propyle ou isopropyle et n est un nombre compris entre 1 et 6, de préférence 2 ou 3,

et le mélange est appliqué sur le cheveu humain.






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